02.04.2009 - 02.04.2009 32 °C
After catching the bus to the national park, we realized that we didn’t have enough money to get into the park and they wouldn’t take credit. After Kate retrieved the money from the only ATM, inside the park, escorted by the Ranger, we paid, entered and proceeded to waste most of our day on a shitty nature trail whose only redeeming feature was seeing a troupe of capaucha monkeys on the way back. It had taken 3 hours return and we only had 3.5 hours to see the rest of the waterfalls, when we were told we should allow 9 hours to be comfortable – what idiots. We virtually jogged the rest of the day from lookout to lookout, overdosing on waterfalls. We caught a small train to the best one, dubbed the Devil’s Throat in Spanish. It was awesome. We were told it could reduce even a hardened grown man to hoots, cackles and giggles and we were no different. We bounced around, awestruck and grinning to ourselves saying over and over “How awesome is this?!”, “Now this was worth it!”. The lookout is reached after a 15 minute speed walk over the calm, shallow upper waters of the river on a raised catwalk. It is perched right on the edge of the biggest cascade, at the top corner of the ‘P’. Looking straight at it, it takes up your entire view – everything you try to look at is moving and mesmerizing and you stand agape before wiping your eyes clear of the mist coming up in gusts from the canyon.
We were happy and satisfied and ran to make the next train back to get on a boat tour under one of the water falls. We made it there with enough time to spare and paid our fare (75 Pesos each / A$28) before stuffing all our valuable into a waterproof bag and getting on. The driver motored around for a bit and showed us the main river leading to the devil’s throat before driving to the cascade that we would go under. He motored up to it and turned to the side, allowing the force of the cascade to wash us and it out to relative safety. Once under the falls, the spray and mist completely blinded you, but the noise (coloured with screams and hoots) was enormous. We did this three times over before returning, satisfied that all our running around the park was worth it.
We rushed back to the bus and to the hostel, had enough time to pack, shower and snack before jumping on the next, and best overnight bus of the trip so far. We were looking forward to this one after hearing fables and legends of massive comfy seats that became beds, warm blankets, videos, hot meals and drinks brought to your lap by waiters. We’re pleased to report that the prophesy was fulfilled. The seats were massive and they went far enough back to lay on your side, the meals were good (like good airplane food), the wine was palatable, the movie was not dubbed and the waiter brought us a ‘wikky’ for a night cap. Andrew had to ask him three times what he meant before understanding (picture Basil Faulty trying to get sense out of Manuel) that he meant whisky. We apologized, saying that we’d just come from Brazil. Deep sleep came swifty.